In my last article I detailed how you can recover the negative from Fuji FP-100C film for scanning or historic process techniques. In this article the focus is on scanning and post processing the negatives. You can use Adobe Lightroom 4 or Photoshop CS6 (or earlier) to do this processing. I’d say Photoshop has the edge, mainly because cloning is much easier in Photoshop and often a bit of cleanup is in order with these negatives. For scanning, many of the modern flatbed scanners with transparency capability will do a nice job. I still use my Epson Perfection 3200 Photo because it still works well for me, but newer scanners such as the Epson Perfection V700 Photo Scanner or the HP Scanjet 8300 professional image scanner would provide excellent results. If you are on a budget, check out the Epson 3200 or even 2400 models on eBay.
Start by removing the white document card from the lid of the scanner, exposing the transparency window. Some of the high end scanners allow up to 8×10 inch transparencies but some are limited to a 4×9 inch opening which means positioning your negative is a bit more critical. I usually place white artist’s tape on the bed to mark out the spot so I can quickly go from one negative to another. I place my Fuji negatives emulsion side down on the glass. This prevents Newton rings from showing up in your scan. (They might appear as small rainbow markings in the image). Tape down the corners with transparent tape to keep the negative from curling (Figure 1). Now you are ready to scan.